It is unfortunate but, when the leaves fall and the temperatures drop, many units pack up their camping gear and wait for spring. This is often the result of leaders who feel uncomfortable with leading a winter campout due to their lack of winter camping experience or it can result from Scouts/Parents who have either not experienced winter camping, lack training and equipment for winter camping, or who have had a bad first experience.

My experience has been that when properly trained, equipped, and experienced in winter camping, Scouts take great pride in this ability. Winter camping also tends to develop more responsible fair weather campers. Deep snow camping offers the opportunity to introduce snowshoeing and cross-country skiing to the Scouts. These are rapidly expanding outdoor sports which Scouts enjoy and learn rapidly. It is hoped that this booklet will encourage unit leaders to give winter camping a try and provide hints which will make their preparation easier and more complete.

WHAT IS WINTER CAMPING?

I like to divide winter camping into three categories.

1. Cold Camping: This is when the temperature drops into the low 30’s and lower. It is the time when the Scouts go to bed on their own, shortly after the sun goes down, and they stay there until the morning sun has warmed things up. There is no snow on the ground nor any expected when you start the campout, but you are not surprised if you get a dusting during your stay. This type of weather is common to mountain camping from early fall to late spring. This is the kind of camping that sours many campers on winter camping when they are not prepared for the cold conditions encountered.

2. Some Snow.: This is cold camping, but in addition you know that there is some snow on the ground, although not enough to impede moving around on foot. You are not surprised if you get more snow, and pray that it stays cold so you won’t have to put up with a lot of cold mud.

3. Deep Snow.: This is also cold camping, and in addition the snow is such that you have to walk on packed trails, and/or use snowshoes or cross-country skis to keep from going in up to your hip pocket. In my opinion, this is the fun type of winter camping, and it is the type that Scouts seem to enjoy and take pride in mastering.

EVERYONES ROLE IN WINTER CAMPING

1. Insure proper advance planning and training.

Everyone must know and recognize that winter camping is serious business.

Everyone must know and recognize the potential dangers of winter camping and how to avoid them.

Everyone must be properly clothed and equipped for existing and potential conditions.

Activities must be appropriate.

2. Unprepared (Mentally or Physically) Scouts must NOT participate in winter camping.

If an inexperienced Scout does not attend meetings where winter camping is taught, he will not have the necessary background to participate. If a Scout shows up lacking established standards of clothing and equipment, he is unprepared and should not participate. Troop Leaders must prepare for unanticipated problems, but they do not have to accept known problems. It is hard to deny participation, but it is the safest way to operate and Scout will soon learn to be prepared.

3. Scouts who fail to assume the proper responsibility for their own welfare and the welfare of others will be sent home.

Once a Scout gets into the snow he may forget all he ever learned and turn into a real dummy. When such a Scout endangers himself and others, he should be sent home.

If possible, it is nice to have some transportation on the first day that plans to stay around until about dark. You can use this to send back Scout who have already used up all dry clothing, etc.

All Scouts must attend a Winter Camping Shakedown before going camping with the Troop. At the Shakedown Scouts will practice staying dry, layering of clothing, insuring that Scouts have adequate clothing, sleeping gear, identifying dummies, etc.

4. All Scouts must be prepared to meet unexpected problems.

A leaking or spilled canteen, water jug, cup of hot cocoa, etc., can render adequate clothing or sleeping bag unsatisfactory for the conditions. A sleeping bag deemed satisfactory might prove ineffective by 2:00 a.m. for an individual. A jacket, hat, or gloves that were checked before you left somehow didn’t get to the campsite. Are you prepared to resolve these problems? Others?

5. Scouts must be prepared and willing to back away from dangerous situations by cutting the outing short and going back home, or initiating an alternative plan.

Serious unanticipated weather can move in or situations can develop where you do not feel comfortable trying to handle them. Under such situations, the wise camper packs up and heads for home, unless he has an alternative plan he can institute.

PLANNING AND TRAINING

Winter camping requires a responsible attitude, many acquired skills, and should not be undertaken lightly. Conditions are such that dangerous circumstances can develop rapidly and Mother Nature can be very unforgiving.

Planning and training must precede winter camping or the Scout is taking a serious risk. This planning and training should take place well in advance of the onset of the winter camping season.

The fact that a Scout may be good at fair weather camping or, that the winter camping experience may be part of a district sponsored Klondike Derby with other units participating does not relieve the necessity for preparedness. Planning and training should include:

Developing the proper attitude.

Training to recognize and avoid potential dangers.

Acquiring proper individual clothing and equipment.

Training to meet special food and water requirements.

Training in winter camping techniques.

Planning and training for suitable activities.

Testing clothing, equipment, and attitude under controlled conditions such as individual backyard camping, and unit Fun Days in the snow.

ATTITUDE

It is important that everyone going on a winter campout has a positive, responsible attitude.

Winter camping drains energy faster than summer camping and, if there is deep snow, just getting around can be fatiguing. Some people simply do not like the cold and others quickly loose interest. It is best to discover who these persons are and not pressure them into participation since their negative attitude and certain complaining will just detract from the enjoyment of others. They are also less likely to have a responsible attitude if they are engaged in an activity they don’t like.

Keeping dry and not getting overexerted are the key elements in winter camping. If there is snow, the normal tendency for inexperienced Scouts is to throw snowballs, chase and stuff snow down each others backs, make snow angels, etc., without thought of the consequences. Such activity is irresponsible when you consider the dangers brought on by becoming wet and tired. Scouts who cannot learn to curtail such activities will not be permitted to participate in winter camping.

Everyone engaged in winter camping must assume considerable responsibility for themselves and others.

POTENTIAL DANGERS

Cold, wet, wind, and fatigue are the dangers of winter camping. Everyone who plans to participate must know and recognize that winter camping conditions are such that, unless proper precautions are taken, serious illness or even death can be close at hand. Remember that wind chill is a basic cause of heat loss, and that temperature does not have to be below freezing before they can develop.

Hypothermia

This is a decrease of the body core temperature to the place that normal functions (muscle and brain) are impaired.

The body can lose heat by several means.

a. Radiation: Heat loss due to exposed areas of the body, especially the head.

b. Convection: Loss of heat due to wind. Heat stays close to the body and outer garments. This heat is more rapidly removed when blown off by wind. This is known as wind chill.

c. Evaporation: Heat is lost through sweat and breathing. This loss is increased by exercise.

d. Conduction: Loss occurs when heat is taken directly from the body as the result of unprotected skin coming in contact with colder items. Spilled liquids such as water or gasoline increase loss.

The body can gain heat from internal and external sources.

a. Internal Heat: This is heat generated by burning food. This is the most important way to generate heat. An adequate intake of food is critical.

b. External Heat: This is heat gained from the sun and other sources. The sun does not always shine. Fires are poor and inefficient sources of heat. Additional clothing, by itself, does not generate heat, it only helps retain what heat the body is generating.

The more active a person is, the more heat the body generates, and the faster the heat supply is exhausted. The body tries to maintain heat by contraction of blood vessels (discussed in frostbite), and by shivering. The prevention, symptoms, and treatment of hypothermia must be known and understood by all who plan to participate in winter camping.

Prevention:

Proper clothing (see individual clothing).

Calorie intake must be increased above normal to provide additional body heat. Individuals must be encouraged to eat hearty meals, and nibble during the day.

Liquid intake must be increased to avoid dehydration and exhaustion. The body will need as much or more liquid than on a hot day. Plans should include plenty of group sponsored hot drinks, and the leader must make sure that everyone maintains their intake of liquids.

Activities must be kept within reason to avoid over fatigue and excessive sweating.

The body must be protected against the wind that takes body heat away more rapidly. Windproof clothing and shelters are necessary.

Symptoms:

The symptoms of hypothermia can be very tricky and you may not even notice them on yourself after a given point. Never ask a person how he feels since he may answer contrary to the symptoms you may observe: just start treatment.

Initial: Chilliness, onset of shivering, and problems with muscular performance, especially hands.

Subsequent: Slowing pace; lurching gait; increased lack of muscular coordination; weakness; slurred speech; confusion, and apathy. Conditions worsen if untreated and death can occur within two hours of onset.

Treatment:

Get into a shelter.

Remove wet clothing and put on a complete change of dry clothing. Don’t leave on wet underwear.

Put into a bedroll. Add hand warmers, if you have them. You may have to add body to body warmth.

If the victim is conscious, induce warm drinks, and intake of sweets.

Signs and symptoms of hypothermia must be brought to the immediate attention of others, and something done about them. A person who starts to shiver is a problem that needs immediate attention. Individuals must be trained to promptly alert leaders to their being cold and to be alert to identify and report signs being observed in others. An individual shivering in a sleeping bag at 2:00 A.M. is as much or more of a problem than a bear running amok in the campsite.

Frostbite

The onset of frostbite begins with the need for overall body warmth. The body constricts blood vessels in the extremities (nose, ears, feet, and hands) in an effort to keep heat within the more vital areas of the body. Unless this constriction is reversed, loss of feeling and freezing will result. Everyone must be alert to the prevention, identification of signs and symptoms, and treatment.

Prevention:

Maintenance of overall body warmth through use of proper clothing and the adequate intake of food and liquids.

Symptoms:

Initial: A feeling of cold and/or pain. Color of the area begins to turn pale.

Subsequent: Loss of feeling; skin become whiter, and finally tissue becomes hard.

Treatment:

Superficial Frostbite:

(1) Warming of the entire body, including warm drinks. Since loss of total body heat is the basic cause, it does little good to warm, say just the feet, unless the whole body is warmed.

(2) Immerse the affected part in warm water 102 to 105 degrees F (warm, but not hot) for about 30 minutes. If water is not available, you can wrap the affected part in dry material, apply body heat and firm steady pressure. You can also put the affected part next to bare skin of a warm individual (armpit or stomach.)

(3) Give warm drinks, and encourage moving fingers and toes.

Deep Frostbite: The individual requires hospital treatment and evacuation should take place along with efforts to warm the entire body.

Prevention and early detection are the keys. Individuals must be trained not to ignore cold feet, hands, etc., and to call such to the attention of leaders. Leaders should likewise give such warnings prompt attention.

Dehydration

Dehydration can spell serious trouble in winter as well as summer. The body needs an adequate intake of liquids to convert food into energy, to control body and body core temperatures, and for waste elimination.

Good hydration reduces the risks of cold, heat, and altitude related illnesses. Many people do not realize that being thirsty is a sign that the body is already becoming dehydrated.

Individuals must force themselves to drink liquids even though they may not feel thirsty.

Yellow Snow is the best indication that dehydration is in process, and all individuals should be alert to observe the color of their urine. The lighter colored your urine, the better your hydration. The darker the urine, the more liquids need to be consumed.

First Aid References

Medicine for Mountaineering: Dr. James A. Wilkerson, The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA.

Wilderness 911: Dr. Eric A. Weiss, The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA.

Wilderness Medicine: Dr. William Forgey, ICS Books, Inc., Merrillville, IN.

INDIVIDUAL CLOTHING

Warm, dry, and wind protected are the keys to enjoying winter camping. The way to help insure this is to have the proper clothing, and wear it properly.

Avoid all cotton clothing. It absorbs and holds moisture, drains body heat when wet, and conducts moisture to other clothing. A wet cotton pant cuff soon becomes a wet pair of pants.

Avoid tight fitting clothing as it restricts circulation.

Layering of clothing: You should use multiple layers of light clothing rather than one or two layers of heavy clothing. Layers should be added or removed, according to weather and activity levels, so you do not become overheated and soaked in sweat. Learning to layer clothing, and developing the discipline to do it in a timely manner, requires conscious effort and practice.

Layers are:

1) Underwear Layer: Underwear tops and bottoms.

2) Clothing Layer: Shirt and pants.

3) Insulation Layer: Jackets, sweaters, and vests.

Note: Some references combine 2. and 3. as the Insulation Layer.

4) Shell Layer: Hood, Wind/Rain Parka, Wind/Rain Pants.

Clothing List

Head Gear: An uncovered head can result in a loss of 50% or more of body heat production. Baseball caps won’t do the job. A wool or synthetic watch cap, or other cap that covers the ears is O.K. The best is a balaclava that also provides protection for the neck and face.

Boots: Tennis shoes, street shoes, and summer hiking boots are NOT acceptable.
Waterproof and insulated leather or Gortex boots are necessary, and in very cold and/or deep snow conditions, insulated overboots should be added. In very cold and/or deep snow, foam moon boots, mukluks, or snow pacs are the best. If X-C skiing, you will need shoes that fit your bindings in addition to your regular boots. If snowshoeing, make sure your boots fit your bindings before you leave home. Check http:www.sportsmansguide.com for Pac Boots, mukluks and winter footwear.

Socks: Cotton socks are NOT acceptable.
Polypropylene, wool, or synthetic/wool combinations are needed. With boots several pairs of socks may be advisable. For Mukluks (the warmest footwear) socks are not advisable.

Gaiters: These are leg covers that keep the snow out of your boots or X-C ski shoes. They can be purchased, homemade, or improvised using plastic bags. If you have high top boots, mukluks, etc. with pants that go down over the boot they may not be needed.

Underwear: Cotton underwear is NOT acceptable.
Polypropylene or other synthetics with wicking qualities are best. Wool is OK, but scratchy. Most synthetics come in three grades: (1) Light for high activity levels. (2) Medium for less heat producing activities. (3) Heavy for bitter cold and/or limited activity.

Shirt: Cotton shirts, especially flannel are NOT acceptable.
Wool shirts are excellent, and can be experienced or surplus to keep costs down. Synthetic materials work very well, especially of the new polyester fleece.

Pants: Levis and other cotton pants are NOT acceptable.
Wool military surplus pants are great and inexpensive. Not only is wool warm, but snow doesn’t stick to wool. Try catalogs or websites such as Cheaper Than Dirt (http://www.cheaperthandirt.com 1-800-421-8047), Sportsman’s Guide (http:www.sportsmansguide.com 1-800-882-2962), or visit a local Goodwill or military surplus store. Tight woven polyester/wool or polyester fleece pants work very well, but are more expensive.

Sweaters and Vests: A wool sweater is very good, and can often be picked up at a thrift store. Synthetic sweaters and polyester fleece sweaters work very well. I like a button or zipper sweater as they help in the layering process. Vests are also good to help keep the body core warm. Vests allow arm movement, but do not provide protection for the arms. Down and polyester fleece are my choices for vests.

Parka: A parka with a hood, filled with down or synthetic fibers, is great when the activity levels taper off, and in very cold weather. An insulated jacket can work, but you will also need some extra head and neck protection.

Wind Protection: A water repellent nylon hooded parka, plus wind pants or chaps are needed. You can make do with a hooded, water repellent nylon jacket, and either wind pants or wind chaps. Waterproof rainwear (nylon coated or Gortex) parka and pants can be used, especially when rain, sleet or snow can be anticipated. Ponchos won’t do the job.

Sleepwear: If at all possible, avoid going to bed with wet clothing. Frequently clothing worn during the day is wet even though it doesn’t appear to be wet. . Have a separate synthetic or wool watch cap that you use only for sleeping. A set of polypropylene underwear or synthetic warm-ups are very good to sleep in. Do not use cotton sleepwear.

Mittens: Wool, foam, or polyester fleece mittens, with a water repellent cover are the best. My favorite is a pair of foam mittens. If I need to I can quickly take my hands out, use my fingers, and then put them back in the mitten. . In very cold conditions, I add a pair of polypropylene glove liners. Insulated gloves with fingers do not work as well as mittens. Foam mittens and water repellent covers are inexpensive, easy to make, and provide a great unit activity.

Scarf: If you are not using a balaclava, a polyester fleece tube scarf can provide protection for the neck and face. Placed across the mouth and nose, it can be used to warm the air you breathe in bitter cold weather.

You can, if you have that kind of money, go out and buy all the items you need for winter camping at a place like REI. On the other hand, you don’t go out to be a fashion statement: - just stay warm and dry. If you watch thrift stores and military surplus stores closely, sooner or later most items will turn up as experienced.

If you have a little talent, many items can be homemade.

Clothing Rules.

1. No Cotton Clothing.

No cotton socks.

No summer boots or shoes.

Hats must cover the ears.

Mittens (NOT Gloves) (Don’t forget the Idiot String)

At least two changes of socks.

2. One complete change of clothing.
Clothing designated for sleeping

INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT

Individual equipment for winter camping is much the same as for summer, with some significant exceptions.

Sleeping Bag: Most good sleeping bags are rated for the temperature or number of seasons (1-4) for which they are adequate. Many ratings are optimistic. Winter camping means a -30^o to 0^o, three or four season bag, depending upon the weather expected.

Mummy bags are superior to rectangular bags. A sleeping bag can have the comfort range extended by:

Using an additional wool or synthetic blanket inside.

A surplus military wool bag or fleece bag inside.

A foam (1) envelope inside or over the bag.

One bag inside another.

Sleeping Pad: Full length pads are needed, and should provide at least 1/2 of padding. This means using two (2) of the usual closed cell pads, or a self-inflating pad. If you are using a foam bag, an extra 1 piece of foam should be used as a liner from head to knees.

Ground Cloth: To keep moisture from entering the sleeping system, a piece of heavy plastic (about 5 mil.) or a Space Blanket should be used under the sleeping pad to help keep ground moisture from entering the sleeping system. If using a tent, use the ground cloth inside the tent rather than under the tent. If using a snow trench, a large (12’x12’) sheet of plastic can serve as both ground cloth and trench cover.

Freeze Cloth -This is simply a light piece of absorbing cloth (nylon) to be placed between the ground cloth and foam pad. It collects moisture from the pad and freezes. In the morning, shake out the ice and have a dry cloth again.

Foot Mitten or Booties: A 1 foam envelope for the feet keeps them toasty. Down or foam booties also work. Soles on the booties permit some walking about, if necessary.

P Bottle: This should be an adequate volume plastic bottle, wide mouth, and with a tight fitting lid. This allows you to relieve yourself on a cold night without having to get out of your warm sleeping bag. You must be very careful to avoid spills or misses. Test ahead of time to insure volume size is adequate. Also nice for summer camping.

Flop Pad: A two foot piece of an old sleeping pad. This can be used to sit or kneel on. It helps keep you warm and dry.

Flashlight: Make sure you put in fresh batteries before you leave home. The new lithium batteries are worth the price. In addition, it’s nice to have a small LED pinned to your sleepwear or outside cover of your sleeping bag.

Canteens: Two 1 qt. plastic canteens with tight fitting caps. You may have to sleep with them to keep them from freezing.

Mess Gear: 2 Wide mouth plastic insulated cups (one for eating and one for drinking) and plastic spoon. Tie the spoon to the cup handle.

First Aid Kit: Same as for summer activities.

Sun Glasses: Reflection from the snow can be blinding. Try to get a pair of wrap-arounds for better protection. Use a sport strap on the glasses, Use a safety pin and string to attach your glass case to your shirt pocket.

Wind/Sun Balm: Dermatone SPF 23 Spot Protection Stick is very good for face and lips, and easy to use with mittens on. Protects against wind, sun, and cold. At least a good 30 SPF Sun block. Reflection from snow can really do a number on your face.

Whistle: As in summer, a whistle around every neck is a good safety item.

TESTING CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT

Before you venture out into the winter camping scene, it is a good idea to test your clothing and equipment under controlled conditions. Your clothing and layering of clothing can be tested on Fun Days in the snow, or when you don’t have to spend the night should you get cold and/or wet.

Sleeping bag adequacy can be checked by spending the night, or until you decide you need more bag, in your backyard. Be sure to compare the backyard temperature with the conditions you expect to encounter when camping. Friends and parents may think you crazy for grabbing your bedroll and heading into the backyard on the first real cold storm of the season, yet there is merit to such madness. The troop requires that everyone going winter camping with the Troop attend a Shakedown overnight or show the Scoutmaster that you are prepared with the proper equipment and sleep out at least one night under cold conditions.

SPECIAL GROUP EQUIPMENT

There are some special pieces of group equipment that need to be mentioned.

A Night Light: It is a good idea to keep a night light burning in your campsite all night. It will help orient those who answer a late night call.
Twelve hour chemical light sticks do a good job, are safer, and more reliable than liquid fuel or candle lantern. If using a snow trench to sleep in, a light beside the trench can help prevent an unexpected drop-in.

Sleds and Toboggans: You will need these to help transport gear to and from the campsite. They are not to be used as play items. Inexpensive plastic toboggans are usually available in toy departments, during season. They usually go on sale at the end of the season. Put long pieces (5’-6’) of PVC pipe on the pull ropes to prevent over- run. A guide rope on the rear can be helpful. Use plenty of tie-down rope to secure your gear. You can make sleds using discarded skis, but they are bulky and heavier.

Snow Shovels: These are needed for making shelters and smoothing out campsite areas. Small lightweight snow shovels can usually be found in Auto Depts. Snow Scoops can be homemade, and can move a lot of snow. Both shovels and scoops can be purchased at sporting goods stores, but tend to be expensive. The group will need several shovels and scoops, if planning to build snow shelters.

Whisk Brooms: These are handy for brushing snow off tents and equipment.

Snow Saw: If snow conditions permit, and you are building snow shelters where you will use blocks of snow, you will need something to cut out the blocks. Snow saws can be purchased or homemade. You can also use old cross-cut hand saws.

Repair Kit: To repair stoves, lanterns, skis, snowshoes, tents, bedding, clothing, etc. You will need tools and spare parts for stoves and lanterns, screw drivers, small needle nose pliers, duct tape, wire, nylon patch material, needles and heavy duty thread.

A WORD ABOUT FOAM GEAR

I have been using foam gear for over thirty years, and a one inch, medium density, foam sleeping bag is super for most conditions, wet or dry. Under very cold conditions I use either a fleece bag, or another sleeping bag inside of the foam bag.

Foam bags are simple to make and the cost is reasonable. With proper instruction, and a little supervision, a Scout can make his own foam sleeping bag.

Foam bags are easy to extend as the Scout grows taller. A unit with foam bags eliminates the problems created by wet sleeping bags. You may turn into a prune in a wet foam bag, but you won’t get cold.

Since foam compresses when you lay on it, you normally use a 1 foam pad in your foam bag so that you have 2 of foam underneath you.

Foam Foot Mitten: Placed in the bottom of your bag for your feet makes for a more comfortable night. They are simple to make.

Foam Mukluks: These are outstanding for winter camping. They make a great unit project. They really take the cold feet out of winter camping.

Foam Mittens: These, with a wind proof cover, will insure warm hands, even under extreme conditions. They are simple to make. Make sure you put an idiot string on the mittens, because you don’t want them dropping into the snow or blowing away.

Foam Hats: These are a little funny looking, but Scouts love to wear them. They keep heads warm even under extreme conditions. Be sure to put a chin strap on the hats.

Foam vest: It is easy to make a foam vest out of ½ foam. These are very warm and feel good right against your skin.

Other Foam Insulation: One can easily make arm and/or leg insulation by wrapping a piece of 1/2 foam around. This is usually held in place with a nylon stocking or just in the clothing. A Seat Pad and Knee Pads are also very useful. Just cut a piece of 1 foam to size and slip it between an inner and outer layer. Great when you sit or kneel in the snow.

FOOD

Since the primary way the body stays warm is by burning off calories, it stands to reason that food plays an important role in winter camping. Essentially, the rule is to Stoke the Furnace as calorie requirements rise dramatically for winter activities. It is important that everyone understands the necessity for increased calorie intake.

Plan on non-cooking or easy to cook, one-pot meals with little or no clean-up. Pre-cook foods whenever possible. Add extra butter (fat for energy) to hot cereals, soups, etc. for higher calorie meals. Plan: Plan: Plan!

Fats provide the most calories by weight and provide sustained energy as they release their calories at a slower rate than do proteins and carbohydrates.

Some winter enthusiasts would have you eating blubber and drinking bacon fat. The other extreme would have you gobbling up candy bars to maintain energy levels.

The best approach is a thoughtful use of fats, proteins, and carbohydrates. All you need to do for a weekend trip is to plan intelligent meals that everyone likes, and will eat. Three good meals a day, and some high calorie snacks in between will keep the furnaces burning. Morning and afternoon breaks help insure food and liquid intake, and provides an opportunity to observe the physical condition of the participants.